Fashion and social order: the early modern world

Riello, G; McNeil, PK

Fashion and social order: the early modern world

Riello, G McNeil, PK

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Publisher:: Routledge
Publication Type:: Chapter
Citation:: The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, 2010, 1, pp. 85 - 92
Issue Date:: 2010-01

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Field	Value	Language
dc.contributor.author	Riello, G	en_US
dc.contributor.author	McNeil, PK https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2151-4196	en_US
dc.contributor.editor	Riello, G	en_US
dc.contributor.editor	McNeil, P	en_US
dc.date.issued	2010-01	en_US
dc.identifier.citation	The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, 2010, 1, pp. 85 - 92	en_US
dc.identifier.isbn	0-415-49323-4	en_US
dc.identifier.uri	http://hdl.handle.net/10453/16801
dc.description.abstract	The infiuential scholar Daniel Roche wrote of seventeenth-century clothing that it 'was at the centre of debates about wealth and poverty, excess and necessity, superfluity and sufficiency, luxury and adequacy' (Roche 1994: 5). Fashion also mattered a great deal to the cultural mind-set of early modern society as its meanings contained a paradoxical ftip-side. Fashion in the early modern period might, Roche argues, be seen as a very dignified aspect of the notion of civility, restraint, manners and codes of conduct, or clothes might become \weapons' in a game of swiftly moving and seductive appearances (ibid.: 5-·6). So clothes and grooming were described in conduct books and instruction manuals as something that had to be carefully managed depending on social needs and settings. Many of these detailed directives were written for young men, the most famous of the texts being Castiglione's The Book of the Courtier, whose form came from a classical model by Cicero and which was widely copied and modified for the following three centuries, forming the basis of the 'etiquette' manual.	en_US
dc.publisher	Routledge	en_US
dc.relation.ispartof	The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives	en_US
dc.title	Fashion and social order: the early modern world	en_US
dc.type	Chapter
utslib.location	London and New York	en_US
utslib.for	120301 Design History and Theory	en_US
utslib.citation.edition	1	en_US
pubs.embargo.period	Not known	en_US
pubs.organisational-group	/University of Technology Sydney
pubs.organisational-group	/University of Technology Sydney/Faculty of Design, Architecture and Building
pubs.organisational-group	/University of Technology Sydney/Faculty of Design, Architecture and Building/School of Design
pubs.organisational-group	/University of Technology Sydney/Strength - CCDP - Contemporary Design Practice
utslib.copyright.status	closed_access
pubs.consider-herdc	false	en_US
pubs.edition	1	en_US
pubs.place-of-publication	London and New York	en_US

Abstract:

The infiuential scholar Daniel Roche wrote of seventeenth-century clothing that it 'was at the centre of debates about wealth and poverty, excess and necessity, superfluity and sufficiency, luxury and adequacy' (Roche 1994: 5). Fashion also mattered a great deal to the cultural mind-set of early modern society as its meanings contained a paradoxical ftip-side. Fashion in the early modern period might, Roche argues, be seen as a very dignified aspect of the notion of civility, restraint, manners and codes of conduct, or clothes might become \weapons' in a game of swiftly moving and seductive appearances (ibid.: 5-·6). So clothes and grooming were described in conduct books and instruction manuals as something that had to be carefully managed depending on social needs and settings. Many of these detailed directives were written for young men, the most famous of the texts being Castiglione's The Book of the Courtier, whose form came from a classical model by Cicero and which was widely copied and modified for the following three centuries, forming the basis of the 'etiquette' manual.

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http://hdl.handle.net/10453/16801