From bio-based to fossil-based to bio-based: Exploring the potential of hemp as a material for next-gen fur

Rissanen, T; Alevato, I; Lie, S

From bio-based to fossil-based to bio-based: Exploring the potential of hemp as a material for next-gen fur

Rissanen, T

Alevato, I Lie, S

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Publication Type:: Journal Article
Citation:: Fashion Highlight Journal, 2024, (4), pp. 108-117
Issue Date:: 2024-12-31

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Field	Value	Language
dc.contributor.author	Rissanen, T https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0192-4227
dc.contributor.author	Alevato, I
dc.contributor.author	Lie, S
dc.date.accessioned	2025-03-05T02:54:25Z
dc.date.available	2025-03-05T02:54:25Z
dc.date.issued	2024-12-31
dc.identifier.citation	Fashion Highlight Journal, 2024, (4), pp. 108-117
dc.identifier.issn	2975-0466
dc.identifier.uri	http://hdl.handle.net/10453/185512
dc.description.abstract	Fur as a status-affirming adornment has been historically significant in fashion. There are three main categories of fur and fur-like materials: animal-based, synthetic, and next-generation (next-gen) fur. Animal-based fur is controversial and associated with ethical and environmental concerns, including animal welfare and the use of toxic chemicals. Synthetic fur is typically made from fossil-fuel-derived polymers like acrylic, which successfully mimic the properties of animal hairs in fur, such as aesthetics and touch. These non-renewable, fossil carbon-based fur replacements do not biodegrade, contributing to the plastics crisis in landfills and through fibre shedding. Next-gen furs made from bio-based, regeneratively sourced materials could mitigate this problem because the shed fibres would biodegrade naturally. This paper reports on preliminary findings from an ongoing study investigating the potential benefits of using hemp fibre as the hair in next-gen fur. Extensive material experiments demonstrate that hemp fibre can be used to produce a visually pleasing, appealing-to-touch, fur-like surface. Further research will investigate the base materials of next-gen furs, as well as the scalability of these new materials.
dc.language	en
dc.relation.ispartof	Fashion Highlight Journal
dc.relation.isbasedon	10.36253/fh-2974
dc.rights	info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
dc.title	From bio-based to fossil-based to bio-based: Exploring the potential of hemp as a material for next-gen fur
dc.type	Journal Article
pubs.organisational-group	University of Technology Sydney
pubs.organisational-group	University of Technology Sydney/Faculty of Design, Architecture and Building
pubs.organisational-group	University of Technology Sydney/Faculty of Design, Architecture and Building/School of Design
pubs.organisational-group	University of Technology Sydney/New Faculty
utslib.copyright.status	open_access	*
pubs.consider-herdc	true
dc.rights.license	This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (CC BY 4.0). To view a copy of this license, visit https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.date.updated	2025-03-05T02:54:23Z
pubs.issue	4
pubs.publication-status	Published
utslib.citation.issue	4

Abstract:

Fur as a status-affirming adornment has been historically significant in fashion. There are three main categories of fur and fur-like materials: animal-based, synthetic, and next-generation (next-gen) fur. Animal-based fur is controversial and associated with ethical and environmental concerns, including animal welfare and the use of toxic chemicals. Synthetic fur is typically made from fossil-fuel-derived polymers like acrylic, which successfully mimic the properties of animal hairs in fur, such as aesthetics and touch. These non-renewable, fossil carbon-based fur replacements do not biodegrade, contributing to the plastics crisis in landfills and through fibre shedding. Next-gen furs made from bio-based, regeneratively sourced materials could mitigate this problem because the shed fibres would biodegrade naturally. This paper reports on preliminary findings from an ongoing study investigating the potential benefits of using hemp fibre as the hair in next-gen fur. Extensive material experiments demonstrate that hemp fibre can be used to produce a visually pleasing, appealing-to-touch, fur-like surface. Further research will investigate the base materials of next-gen furs, as well as the scalability of these new materials.

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http://hdl.handle.net/10453/185512