Fashioning geometric patterns : investigating the underlying geometry of fashion patternmaking

Liu, Mark Zer-Ern

Fashioning geometric patterns : investigating the underlying geometry of fashion patternmaking

Liu, Mark Zer-Ern

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Publication Type:: Thesis
Issue Date:: 2015

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Field	Value	Language
dc.contributor.author	Liu, Mark Zer-Ern
dc.date.accessioned	2016-09-21T05:01:03Z
dc.date.available	2016-09-21T05:01:03Z
dc.date.issued	2015
dc.identifier.uri	http://hdl.handle.net/10453/52987
dc.description	University of Technology Sydney. Faculty of Design, Architecture and Building.	en_AU
dc.description.abstract	This thesis seeks to apply mathematic principles to traditional fashion patternmaking. The goal is to understand core practices from a fresh perspective and to propose strategies to address systemic inaccuracies identified by patternmaking experts. In the course of seventy-seven systematic experiments, we test traditional techniques within a rigorous geometric framework. In doing so we confront the systemic reliance on linear measurement, that is fundamentally incapable of measuring the body’s complex curvature. Experts repeatedly point to the inadequacy of drafting from such means, and of the heavy reliance on personal judgement. Non-Euclidean geometry is established as the mathematics that governs curved surfaces, and our research builds a new fashion patternmaking system based on its principles. By its use we compare the limitations of traditional Euclidean linear measurement in describing complex curved surfaces, and thereby promote new techniques to boost levels of accuracy, efficiency and creative freedom. Our research analyses and maps the shape of the body in time as a series of patterns that seek to capture body movement, and in turn seeks to build garments that anticipate that movement. We thereby introduce a new generation of ‘variable structures’ and ‘smart patterns’ designed to change shape in time, leading to improved fit, function and aesthetic. Patternmaking is ubiquitous in the modern fashion industry, and our work has pressing applications from fast fashion to high fashion. We offer real commercial benefits in time, labour and materials efficiently conserved. We bridge the gap between patternmaking and engineering that underpins the development of software applications, notably the mapping of time-based 4D scans to generate advanced patterns. In sum, our techniques seek to empower the modern fashion designer to express their creativity and build new generations of fashion garments.	en_AU
dc.format	Thesis (PhD)
dc.language.iso	en_AU	en_AU
dc.relation	https://opus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/52987/2/02whole.pdf
dc.rights	The author owns the copyright in this thesis including all reproduction and reuse rights for the work. The work may not be altered without the permission of the copyright owner. Attribution is essential when quoting or paraphrasing from this thesis.
dc.rights	au.edu.uts.lib/ppc
dc.rights	info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
dc.title	Fashioning geometric patterns : investigating the underlying geometry of fashion patternmaking	en_AU
dc.type	Thesis	en_AU
utslib.copyright.status	open_access

Abstract:

This thesis seeks to apply mathematic principles to traditional fashion patternmaking. The goal is to understand core practices from a fresh perspective and to propose strategies to address systemic inaccuracies identified by patternmaking experts. In the course of seventy-seven systematic experiments, we test traditional techniques within a rigorous geometric framework. In doing so we confront the systemic reliance on linear measurement, that is fundamentally incapable of measuring the body’s complex curvature. Experts repeatedly point to the inadequacy of drafting from such means, and of the heavy reliance on personal judgement. Non-Euclidean geometry is established as the mathematics that governs curved surfaces, and our research builds a new fashion patternmaking system based on its principles. By its use we compare the limitations of traditional Euclidean linear measurement in describing complex curved surfaces, and thereby promote new techniques to boost levels of accuracy, efficiency and creative freedom. Our research analyses and maps the shape of the body in time as a series of patterns that seek to capture body movement, and in turn seeks to build garments that anticipate that movement. We thereby introduce a new generation of ‘variable structures’ and ‘smart patterns’ designed to change shape in time, leading to improved fit, function and aesthetic. Patternmaking is ubiquitous in the modern fashion industry, and our work has pressing applications from fast fashion to high fashion. We offer real commercial benefits in time, labour and materials efficiently conserved. We bridge the gap between patternmaking and engineering that underpins the development of software applications, notably the mapping of time-based 4D scans to generate advanced patterns. In sum, our techniques seek to empower the modern fashion designer to express their creativity and build new generations of fashion garments.

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http://hdl.handle.net/10453/52987